August - September, 2005
THE LAST WORD: ART ALLEN Most taxpayers do not realize that the vast majority of the units of the National Park System are not huge, natural areas like Yellowstone or Grand Canyon, but rather hundreds of scattered rare gems of American history and culture. Like most gems, they are small in size, often a few hundred acres or even less.
The majority of these sites are what Harvard's Dr. Robin Winks referred to in his quote about the National Park System being "A great University with 388 different campuses scattered across the nation." It is our job to teach and reteach American History. It is what the Smithsonian would like to do nationwide, and what the NPS actually does tolerably well nationwide We reteach American History because when Billy was in High School he was more interested in Becky Sue than the importance of the Battle of Saratoga. Now he is married to Becky Sue, has 2.3 children, the hormones are no longer raging, and he is now eager to learn about the importance of the Battle of Saratoga. In the absence of a time machine, The Park Service has the next best thing, artifacts from the period and many ways of interpreting them to help Americans understand their history and culture. In order to acquire and safeguard these artifacts, we have an elite corps of museum specialists to see that the above happens. These museum specialists are the behind the scenes heroes of the NPS, working tirelessly to preserve the fabric of American history and culture. One of them, Art Allen, had the opportunity to get in on the ground floor of museology in the National Park Service and have the fun and challenge of a pioneer. As we shall see, his life and career was not entirely in museum work, which gives him a unique prospective on the Preservation scene. Art Allen was born and raised in Texas, served a hitch in the Army in Germany, graduating as sergeant, attended the University of Texas, graduated in petroleum geology, worked as an undertaker(!) He then worked for Humble Oil, and then joined the NPS in 1960. He served as a park ranger at Blue Ridge Parkway, Naturalist at Big Bend National Park, Assistant Chief of Interpretation and Resource Management at the new Canyonlands National Park. He worked as park planner in Washington, DC and became Chief of the newly formed Division of Museum Services in 1970, a post he held for 12 years. He became assistant superintendent of his original park, Blue Ridge Parkway in 1983 and retired in 1990.
Doug Evans recalls a memorable day on the Rio Grande in Big Bend National Park when they were hosting Lady Bird Johnson on a trip through Mariscal Canyon. Their raft contained Mrs. Johnson, The Secretary of Interior Stewart Udall, Doug Evans, Art Allen, and the First Lady's Secret Service agent. The First Lady was very interested in nature in general and Big Bend geology in particular and was not at all interested in the raft loads of raucous, shouting reporters and politicians behind them. Could they escape so that Art could teach her something about Mariscal Canyon? Stewart Udall, grinned and suggested they could, so all four men bent to their paddles and blasted ahead of the rest of the party, allowing Art to provide a memorable floating geology lesson, for which Mrs. Johnson expressed heartfelt gratitude. Kent Bush, Regional Curator of Pacific West, said "During the last half of the 1970's, Art took a rag-tag bunch of misfits at Harpers Ferry and augmented that core with other misfits he recruited from other museum operations and put together the foundations of the Museum Management Program as we know it today. He rebuilt the "Curatorial Methods" training course which proved to be the most popular course of the time in the training schedule. He expanded the object conservation program and HFC, and put it on a professional footing equal to that of the Smithsonian in the late 1970's using the Hubbell Trading Post model, Art instituted the park Collection Management Plan as a primary planning document within the Service in order to base logical funding and decision making in museum management in the parks. Art was a tireless advocate for the position of Regional Curator in each region." So, let's get on to talking with Art himself:
THE SAFETY MESSAGE
Well, neighbors, what else could it be? This issue's safety topic would have to be the greatest breakdown in public safety in the history of the United States; There have been bigger natural disasters in the history of the United States, but none of them, not even the Galveston Hurricane of 1900 which killed between 6,000 and 10,000 prompted such a total collapse of infrastructure, civility, lack of response, lack of information, incompetence and even lack of care or concern on the part of the "authorities"
The whole Katrina thing had a surreal ring to it as if you were reading a Reuters news report from one of those God forsaken, earthquake prone, former Soviet republics called "Gafoonistan" or something: i.e. "Travelers recently returned from the Interior report sc gunfire and widespread looting in Gafoonabad, largest city in Gafoonistan, strickened today by a 10.3 earthquake. Eyewitnesses report almost total chaos, with very little organized relief effort. The army and police have either disappeared or are completely overwhelmed. The death toll is unknown with estimates ranging from 2,000 to 200,000. Survivors are believed to be completely without food, medical supplies or even water, with many trapped under the rubble. Gafoonistan's dictator, General Abdul Wazoo, vacationing on the French Riviera told an inquiring reporter "Why are you bothering me with this crap?" But this was not Gafoonistan, but rather a sizable portion of the richest and most powerful country on earth, and the person in charge was not some tin pot dictator, but George W. Bush, admittedly not the sharpest tool in the fire cache, but duly elected by the American people. So what went wrong? Well now, that's an interesting question, so much so that the President is willing to appoint himself as judge, jury and prosecutor to investigate himself! During the interim, the President's spokesperson Scott something or other, kept reminding us that "There would be plenty of time to play the blame game". So who is to blame? Well now, neighbors, I guess I will have to manfully step up to the plate and accept some of the blame on behalf of God and myself. You see, more than a decade ago, I was the Unit Manager of the French Quarter Unit of Jean Lafitte National Historic Park and Preserve. Along with that grandiose title, one of my jobs was to represent the NPS at the New Orleans Hurricane Disaster meetings. Now in case you were wondering, the Mississippi River levees within the city are fairly impregnable, and there is a last ditch fail safe in that floodgates can be opened above Baton Rouge that will divert the entire Mississippi into the Atchafalaya Basin (Hopefully after informing Morgan City what was on the way) and save New Orleans. However, the Achilles heel of New Orleans hurricane preparedness has always been Lake Pontchartrain and the Lake Pontchartrain Levee system. You will recall on a mental map of New Orleans that Lake Pontchartrain sits like the Devil's monocle directly above the Crescent City.
Seiches are what happen when you leave your four year old son unattended in the bath tub. He will shortly discover that by moving himself in a rhythmical way from one end of the tub to the other, he can also move most of the water to one end of the tub, creating a most satisfactory tidal wave that will empty the tub onto the bathroom floor, to his delight if not to yours. A hurricane in Lake Pontchartrain works pretty much the same way, its circular motion mounding up the water until the levee is either overtopped or breeched. This is something to be avoided as much of the city is below sea level. Now the person in charge of among other things, the Pontchartrain levees, got up to speak. He was guardedly optimistic. "Within the next two years, we will be able to upgrade the Pontchartrain Levees to withstand a Category 3 hurricane, providing it is fast moving". As I recall, this was regarded as a considerable achievement. However, an unasked question hung in the air, so much so that I decided to ask it. "But what about a Category 4 or 5 hurricane? "Sir!" the man said, with the florid gravity of a Louisiana politician "We cannot afford a Category 4 or 5 hurricane in Lake Pontchartrain!" I nodded understandingly, and took some notes. I would have to do a memo for Thunderbear, the extra terrestrial Celestial, who was Facility Manager for this planet, and thus the Deity's representative on Earth, who would then pass it on to God, reminding Him in the strongest possible terms that Category 4 or 5 hurricanes could not be permitted in Lake Pontchartrain , and Category 3 hurricanes only if they were fast moving. (The longer a hurricane loitered over Lake Pontchartrain, the bigger the Seiche.) O.K. Very well. But had I remembered to pass the memo on to Thunderbear? Did Thunderbear place the memo in the correct in box so it could work it way up the Celestial Chain of Command. (Heaven, as you know, is a Federal Bureaucracy, which is why God is apparently slow to respond to your prayers and petitions. For example, your desperate appeal to the Almighty to let you hit a homerun in a Little League game 37 years ago, is only now reaching the outskirts of the Heavenly Bureaucracy.) Obviously, a Category 4 storm had gotten into Lake Pontchartrain. Either myself or Thunderbear had dropped the ball. The buck has to stop somewhere. So much for prevention, now what about response? Response was remarkable for its almost total absence. With the spectacular and heart warming exception of the U.S. Coast Guard, which rescued more than 32,000 people, folks were pretty much on their own.
Everything collapsed as if this was Gafoonistan , but this was not Gafoonistan and the disaster was not an unpredictable earthquake or Tsunami. This was a hurricane that was under close observation from its inception to its landfall. From a Safety and Loss control standpoint, could anything have been done to have prevented or mitigated this disaster? Well for starters, if you are going to insist on having a city below sea level, the levees must be capable of withstanding a category 4 or 5, even if. Slow moving. However, according to the risk assessment people, would not such mega levees be prohibitively expensive? Not if you're trapped in the attic, hoping the water won't rise. Then there is the interesting idea of Nature as a Safety barrier. A whole, complete ecosystem of marsh grasses and other plants once stretched for scores of miles out into the gulf, absorbing the force of the hurricanes. It was dirt cheap, self maintaining, self repairing safety system. Removing the Louisiana marshes was a bit like removing the air bags and seat belts from your car as you hadn't used them lately and could use the space for something else. And then there is always the sage remark that sooner or later falls from the lips of the television weatherman "Hurricane winds and storm surge tends to weaken once the storm moves inland." Well now, neighbors, that might be considered an Environmental Clue, if not a suggestion from God. It might not be a good idea to build hotels, casinos, and houses on barrier islands or beach front property. Perhaps such lands and the area immediately behind them would be best used as local, state or federal recreation and natural areas with very light infrastructure that could be easily replaced in the event of a storm. Would such an idea occur to our perky President? Apparently not. The President consoled one of the victims of Katrina, Senator Trent Lott of Mississippi, who, according to the President, "Lost his whole beachfront house". The President reassured us that "Trent would rebuild better than ever" and the President looked forward to sitting on the new porch with Trent. Actually, neighbors, it is you and I who will rebuild Trent's Folly, thanks to federal flood insurance that permits and even encourages irresponsible building in dicey locations (And Trent will not invite us to sit on his taxpayer built porch!).
Well, yes, Mr. President. Abolish poverty in America Now one may not think of poverty as a safety issue, but of course it is. This was illustrated in the starkest possible terms in New Orleans. If you were middle class you lived, if you were poor, you died (or came very close to doing so). The Middle Class put the family, the pets, and personal papers in their cars and left. The poor waited patiently for buses that never came. So the answer for hurricane safety is for the Federal Government to buy each poor person a good used car with a full tank of gas that would be parked outside the poor person's shack or housing project? No, for a variety of socioeconomic reasons, that car would not be available for long. In addition to having cars, the Middle Class has an inventory of resources that the poor do not have, and they are not all monetary. Part of the middle class safety net is family and friends who are usually also middle class and can provide housing and even job opportunity. The poor usually have family and friends that are in the same desperate straits as themselves. So, provide the Poor with a course "Middle Class Values 101"? No, but you're getting close. Massive funding of community colleges along with reduction of tuition would help the poor "lift themselves up by their boot straps" as the well off are always quick to say, failing to note that the poor have no boots. Then of course, there is that perennial safety & loss control idea of making adequate medical care available to all Americans, regardless of where they were located geographically or whether their employer was flush with payroll and benefits. This is the case of most developed nations and even some not so developed nations such as Mexico. This is no bleeding heart liberal idea, but simply good Safety & Loss control. Labor could be more mobile and flexible as could employers if they were not burdened by finding and providing health care. Lack of a proper national health insurance plan could be likened to a park superintendent who does away with the park EMT program on the grounds that the visitors and employees who might need such a program are careless losers who should be taken out of the gene pool anyway. On the other hand, perhaps we should not give this greedhead Administration ideas, even in a Safety Message.
HARD TIMES AT INTERIOR JUNIOR HIGH Now as far as bullies went, Interior Junior High was no worse but certainly no better than most junior high schools.
The lead bully at Interior Junior High was a large loud kid with an oleaginous grin by the name of Paulie Hoffman. His assistant bully was an evil kid by the name of Little Stevie Griles, trusted by no one in their right mind. Now there is no point in being a bully unless you have someone to bully. Norbert Percy Suggs filled that bill exactly Norbert Percy Suggs or "NPS" as the rest of the kids called him was the school nerd. Tall and ungainly, he was a very earnest solemn child that never quite seems to fit in with the rest of kids at Interior Junior High. His classmates liked to take things apart and try to sell them. "NPS" liked to preserve things and would tiresomely lecture anyone who would listen as to why this was important. Naturally, this didn't make him popular with his classmates. Nor did it make "NPS" popular with the Interior Junior High principal, Ms Norella, who considered "NPS" to be an insufferable prig and a goody two shoes who might make her look bad. Now it is the job of the school administration to control bullying and some school principals do the job better than others. Ms Norella was not one of these. Many of the townspeople were aware that "NPS" was being bullied. Since they regarded "NPS" as the most lovable kid in town, they asked Ms Norella to do something about the bullying. Ms Norella called Paulie and Little Stevie into her office and told the boys that there had been some complaints. She said she didn't want to hear that anything really bad happen to "NPS" and that they really had to get along. Now Paulie and Little Stevie could understand a wink and nudge as well as anyone. They grinned their buttery grins and said "Yes, Ma'am!" One day, Paulie and Little Stevie cornered NPS in the locker room. "Hi Goody-goody" sneered Paulie, giving NPS a derisory shove. "You're gonna be like everyone else at Interior Junior High or else! Glowered Little Stevie "You can't make me hurt Mother Nature! " Said NPS bravely.
"NPS"'s blood ran cold. He had indeed heard of Dickie Pombo. Pombo was a bully's bully. Mean, not too bright, greedy, and sufficiently cruel for all occasions. "Dickie's our best friend!" proclaimed Paulie, with relish. "We told him about you! Dickie doesn't like goody-goodys! Little Stevie outlined what would happen next. "If you don't do what we tell you, Dickie and us are going to stick your head in the toilet and flush it!" "And keep flushing it!" chortled Paulie in happy anticipation. WHAT'S GOING ON HERE! Boomed a voice from around the corner It was Steve Wilson of the ILLUSTRATED PRESS. It was a rhetorical question. Wilson knew exactly what was going on. He had been listening just around the corner. As a reporter and School Board member, he had become concerned about stories that "NPS" was being bullied. "Nothin' Mr. Wilson! Honest! Stevie and me were just askin' NPS if he'd like to be on our team! We want to be his friends!" "I don't think so!" Said Mr. Wilson. "NPS, you wait here! I'm taking you two up to the Principal's office, grabbing each boy's ear as an attention getting steering mechanism. Wilson neither liked nor trusted Ms Norrella, who had gotten her job through political patronage, but he had to go through channels. "I caught these two bullying NPS and I think it should stop!" Said Mr. Wilson, pushing the boys into Ms Norella's office. "Indeed it should!" said Ms Norella, with mock indignation, "Thanks for bringing it to my attention!" After Wilson had left, Ms Norella sat down at her desk, fingers drumming ominously on the blotter. The two boys stared at the floor, "Shucks! Ms Norella, We didn't do nothin' wrong! Stammered Paulie. "Yes, you did, Paulie." Hissed Ms Norella, "You got caught!"
DOES GOD BELIEVE IN EVOLUTION? The Bear was sitting in the rocker reading the WASHINGTON POST when I entered the den. He was wearing horn rim glasses; something that I had not seen before.
"I didn't know you wore glasses" I said. "Only for reading" Thunderbear replied, grumpily and somewhat defensively. As God's representative on Earth and Facility manager for the planet, it had been necessary that he take on tangible form. It would have been flattering had he decided to take on human form, but as that had rather famously been done before, Thunderbear elected instead to take on the combined form of a bear and an eagle. His thought being that nobody messes with Grizzly bears and they are famously omnivorous, everything tasting good to them. The eagle component supplied wings which cut down on commuting time and corrected the notoriously poor vision of bears. Thunderbear thought he had come up with the perfect creature combination. "However, I did not realize that while eagles eyes are spectacularly far sighted, spotting the ripple of a fish two kilometers away, they are not well adapted for reading a newspaper, something not normally in an eagle's job description. "One cannot plan for everything" I conceded what are you reading?" A very interesting article on Evolution and Intelligent Design. It appears that your President Bush would like to have both. "Say what?" I inquired. "That is, according to your president, if Children study Evolution in school, perhaps they should also study Creationism and Intelligent Design. "Well, which should it be? I asked breathlessly "Oh, I don't know!" The Bear said carelessly "One or the other, maybe both, or" He added cheerily "perhaps you might teach them Scottish Country Dancing or Icelandic poetry. It really doesn't matter to us!" "But it must matter! Which is it? Evolution or Intelligent Design." "That's what I've always admired about your species!" The Great Bear laughed jovially "Here you are, marooned on an orphan planet in a half forgotten frontier galaxy at the far end of the Universe and you believe that the Supreme Bureaucrat gives a good god damn about your opinions!" "He doesn't?" "As a matter of fact, no." The Great Bear said impatiently, reaching for another pawful of honey flavored popcorn "Why the hell should He? Thunderbear saw my look of consternation, and continued in a more conciliatory tone.
"Think of this analogy: Suppose a technician at a water quality lab here on planet earth was examining a sample of pond scum from the local sewerage treatment plant. Everything had been going pretty routine for years, but this one day, the technician looked through his microscope and found that the pond scum had arranged themselves on the slide to spell out the words "We Love You". "You think we humans are pond scum! I said angrily. "Just an analogy! Thunderbear said "Let me finish" "After the technician had his sanity and sight checked by independent observers, he would continue to observe the pond scum. He might be touched by the pond scum's claims of love. Upon further contact with the pond scum, he might be amused to learn of the opinions of the pond scum of life within and beyond the little drop of water that is their universe. The technician would be even more amused and perhaps embarrassed to find that the pond scum had developed opinions on the motivations and character of the technician who was apparently granting them the gifts of light, water, and nutrient; opinions that did not remotely resemble the reality of the situation." "Then we are an experiment?" I said incredulously. "And a very interesting one at that! The Bear said reassuringly "Not the oldest or the biggest, but certainly one of the more interesting experiments!" "But why is God doing this? "Everyone needs a hobby, Evolution happens to be God's hobby!" The Bear said gaily. But isn't there some sort of Intelligent Design?" The Bear stopped in mid beer reach and stared incredulously at me "That would spoil all the fun! If there were a plan or a design, then we would know what was going to happen next and that would be no fun at all, particularly if you are going to around for all Eternity and God doesn't want to be bored." "But there must be a plan?" I persisted "For a sentient species, you Humans seem to have an overarching need for a plan!" The Bear said wonderingly. Look at it this way" Thunderbear intoned patiently; think of the Universe as a sort of Home Depot. We supply you with the stuff you need to make things, we don't require that you show Us a plan; We don't care what you build or what you do as long as you don't inflict pain on another creature; that is called "Doing Evil" and we do forbid it and do punish it, though not as often and as severely as I would prefer. There is, of course, a corollary of being nice to other creatures, that is called "Doing Good" and we do reward that. "Then God is a cashier in a Celestial Home Depot"? I asked excitedly "You're screwing up the analogy and missing the point! " Thunderbear said irritably. You humans have no concept of Time, the vastness of the Universe or the number of objects therein, or the paltry insignificance of your world. There are, last time we did a Celestial inventory, some 13 trillion, odd billion stars. Quite a few have planets, live or dead, revolving around them. Each of those planets thus has its own year. Now do you think that of all those planets, God sets his watch to Earth time; that he wears a gold Rolex set to Arkansas Standard Time?" I had to admit that it did seem statistically unlikely. "Then why do you humans pester yourselves about a non-problem like Evolution. It doesn't bother God; He finds it an enjoyable hobby! So why should it bother you?" I had to admit that I had no idea. "Perversity!" answered Thunderbear Sheer human perversity! Your species has a perverse way of inventing non-problems when you are confronted with real problems. Speaking of which, how is the challenge of Global Warming coming along. "Our President now admits that it exists. " I said stoutly. "Excellent! That will be the title of my next Celestial Memo to Celestial Central: I will title it "The Evolution of Thought in the Mind of George Bush."
KAYAKING THE C & O If you like French Impressionist painting, you should visit the Mellon Gallery on the Mall. On the other hand, if you would like to be IN a French Impressionist painting, then you should go for a paddle on the C & O Canal in the autumn of the year. It is one of the great treats of life in the Washington, DC area.
The autumn leaves are 6 shades of yellow, along with reds, an occasional purple and some remaining greens. They hang over you in a glorious arch that is reflected in the canal you are traversing. The water is mirror still with only your bow wave and the slap of your paddle disturbing the calm. The sky is bellflower blue and has that crisp feeling of completeness that only an Eastern Fall day can possess. If it is a good year, with exactly the right amount of rain at exactly the right time and the frosts are not too early, then you can count on six weeks, sometimes two months of blissful French Impressionist paddling. The oft told story of how Associate Supreme Court Justice William O. Douglas saved this treasure, not from the clutches of avaricious businessmen but from the dull brained plodders of the National Park Service, has been recited many times, sort of like an environmental version of the Midnight Ride of Paul Revere. It seems that the railroad had unloaded the derelict canal on the US Government and the NPS was encouraged to find a use for it. So what do you do with a long, narrow strip of land with a dry canal in the middle of it? Umm, fill in the canal and turn it into a "park way", so that folks could drive up to Cumberland, Maryland, turn around and drive back down again? What's in Cumberland, Maryland? Not much, but a parkway seemed like a good idea at the time, at least to the NPS, which had experienced some success with the "motorized nature experience" at Shenandoah National Park, Blue Ridge Parkway, and Natchez Trace.
The idea of non- automotive transport proved inviting, and on the basis of a few well publicized hikes with famous people, Justice Douglas shamed the NPS into doing something original. Now how long does it take to paddle the canal? Well, I don't know. That's something that hasn't been done for 80 or more years. You see, the majority of the Canal doesn't have any water in it. That was one of the dozen or more reasons why the C & O Canal never made much money. Floods were always knocking out dams and locks and drying up various sections. Canals with water in them are very expensive to maintain as both Panama and the NPS has discovered. The surprising thing is how many miles of the Canal are watered and how far you can go in a kayak or canoe. This is something not even the visionary Justice Douglas could have envisioned. There are some 20 miles of water at the DC end and three much shorter watered sections in the upper portion of the canal, divided. The Army Corps of Engineers in cooperation with the NPS, plans an additional watered section at the Cumberland end of the Canal As it was a glorious fall day, Joan and I decided to go kayaking on the C & O. In addition to its usual Autumnal splendors, the Canal offered yet another tourist attraction, The Dan Snyder Memorial Clear-cut. You will remember a scandal a few months back in which Dan Snyder, owner of the Washington Redskins football team, had decided to remove some of the trees on his property abutting the Canal that were obstructing his view or otherwise causing him some problems. The problem was that the trees were part of a scenic easement that did not allow cutting without permits. It seems that Snyder did not have the permits. Joan and I planned to paddle past the clear-cut and inspect the damage. If it proved interesting, I would write an article about it for THUNDERBEAR. It seemed a good use of time.
When in doubt, ask a ranger! Asking a ranger has become light years easier due to an innovative and enterprising effort on the part of the National Park Service. Thanks to the NPS and the Internet, the collective wisdom of the 8,000 permanent members of the park service lies at your fingertips. Sort of like your own Library of Congress! You need only to type in www.nps.gov/refdesk/, punch it in and the list of the 388 units of the National Park System will appear. They are arranged alphabetically and so you scroll down the list from Abraham Lincoln Birthplace to Zion, stopping at the park needed. Punch in the name ( C & O Canal National Park, for example) and a list of the names of the park permanent employees will appear democratically listed alphabetically, along with their job title and telephone number. Say that the first person in the list, Alvin Aardvark was exactly the person you wanted to contact, it is not necessary to call him up, wasting your nickel and his valuable time. You simply type in the person's first and last name, separated by an underscore, then the @ followed by nps.gov as in Alvin_Aardvark@nps.gov. Unlike a telephone call, this will allow Ranger Aardvark to look up the information and e mail it back to you, all in good time. Naturally, if the question is somewhat complex or controversial, such as "Is it true that the Director of the National Park Service, Fran Mainella, is an Environmental Quisling?" Ranger Aardvark may prefer to buck it up to his supervisor or even the superintendent for reply. It was not necessary to bother the superintendent of C & O Canal NP with requests for directions and site locations, so I e-mailed my request to the first C & O interpreter that I came across in the C & O employee list, adding that I planned to do an article on the clear cut. However, the day was so beautiful and the soft autumn sun so inviting that we decided not to wait for the e-mail response, but simply go down to the Great Falls Tavern Visitor Center and inquire locally, so we lashed on the kayak, packed a picnic lunch and headed for the River Road. I asked the ranger at the C & O entrance kiosk where, exactly, was the "Dan Snyder Memorial Clear-cut". Now I'm sure this tourist attraction has other names, but the ranger knew exactly what I was talking about. "You can put your kayak in the canal down at the end of the parking lot, and then paddle upstream for about 2 miles till you get to Swain's Lock. You'll have to portage the lock or, if you like, just tie up and walk upstream about 200 yards. You can't miss it!" He said, smiling. So we put our tandem kayak into the Canal and begin paddling. There is surprisingly little traffic on the Canal even on a Saturday. Justice Douglas may not have appreciated it, but the C & O Canal is best enjoyed from the water, that is, from the Canal boatman's perspective rather than the mule's. The towpath, the mule's former domain, was filled with grimly puritanical joggers, who were constantly being notified "ON YOUR LEFT!" by equally determined and self-centered bicyclists. "The Capitol of the Free World" exercises and recreates with the same humorless intensity it approaches everything else. Ah, but a voyage on the Canal! Now there is nature and recreation for you at the proper pace. Yachting on the Canal has certain inherent advantages over jogging or even walking. There is the matter of the picnic lunch & libation for example. You cannot, in all good form, swig from a bottle of red wine as you jog or bicycle along the C & O Canal. It is not illegal, it is just bad form and is not done as it tends to mark one as an ordained alcoholic, who might attract the attention of the Authorities ("Ranger, there a drunk on a bike near milepost 15, nearly ran me into the Canal"!) You don't want this if you are a Senator or even a senatorial intern. Ah! But a glass of frosty Chablis passed over the thwart of a canoe or kayak to complement a bagel load of Stilton Cheese and smoked salmon, now that is canal boating at its best. You could name your French impressionist to commemorate it.
The canal ecology is healthy with a respectable population of small, but numerous fish, catfish, perch, bass, bluegills, and yellow suckers, supporting a devoted population of spin fishermen who practice catch and release and Great Blue Herons who don't. The Canal also boasts one of the largest, easily viewed collections of wild turtles in North America. The NPS does not require them to exhibit themselves during daylight hours, but that is the way it works out, as the Park Service has allowed a certain number of fallen trees to slope gracefully into the water, providing numerous sunning stations for Red turtles, Eastern Painted, turtles and that emblem of armored truculence, snapping turtles As you unavoidably glide toward them, they reluctantly slide into water. Fish jump healthily, making bulls eye patterns in the leafy surface of the Canal. All is peaceful, save for muted conversations drifting down from the towpath and the hissing chuff of bicycle tires on gravel and the plash of your paddle. The discerning kayaker could detect history, even family history in the cliff side portion of the Canal. Drill bit holes where the powder was placed for blasting out portions of the Canal a 175 and more years ago. Blasting was and is dangerous business. Slaves could not be used as they were too valuable for such work. The Irish were worth nothing, so they were hired. According to family tradition, some of them were my ancestors. They proved to be difficult employees. I poured a toast to my sweating, cantankerous forbearers, who as they wrestled shattered rock out of the way, could not imagine a grateful descendant making use of their labor to glide along in a kayak drinking white wine and eating smoked salmon. The Greenblood Ranger, Roger Siglin, once remarked that "National Parks are an Illusion: Nature or Wilderness as we imagine or would like it to be." So it is with the C & O Canal; an illusion. In its gritty industrial heyday, the C& O Canal probably didn't look very pretty or smell very pretty. What became of all the mule crap? What became of the human waste and the garbage of the boatman and his family living in tight quarters on the barge? Was there a majestic riparian forest here along the Potomac and Canal side as there is today? In a wooden fuel economy of the mid 19th century, probably not. Trees were something you tried to prevent, as they tended to fall into an across the Canal. However, like most National Parks, The C & O Canal is a mighty fine illusion, but one that can easily be shattered. We arrived at Swain's lock, jump off point for a visit to the "Dan Snyder Memorial Clear-cut. Obviously, you don't have to paddle or walk two miles up the Canal; you can take the Swain's Lock road off River Road and put your canoe or kayak in at Swain's lock. If you don't have a boat, you can rent a canoe or kayak at the Swain's Lock concession and perhaps buy an ice cream bar if it is a warm day. The day was getting on and the shadows lengthen with that Autumnal speed that tells you the endless summer days are over. We elected not to portage Swain's Lock but to walk the last 200 hundred yards to the clear-cut.
As previously remarked, wild nature is an illusion. The US Forest Service rather cynically and mendaciously conceals its clear cuts behind a narrow "beauty strip" so that the naïve hick from New York City thinks he is driving through an old growth forest carefully preserved and protected by stout hearted forest rangers; his tax dollars at work. The C & O Canal Illusion is a bit more complex. The suburb called "Potomac" is one of the richest in the US. Its 5 to 12 million dollar homes abut the National Park like a Maginot Line of extreme wealth. Like the Maginot Line, they are camouflaged; In this case by the almost Amazonian denseness of the Eastern deciduous forest, which masked their presence almost completely. The casual visitor from Mongolia, walking along the tow path, could assume that the stately forest he admires might extend inland a hundred miles or more inland. There is nary a millionaire or a mansion to be seen to be seen. However, the owner of the Washington Redskins has broken the illusion. The green curtain of vegetation has been removed and Dan Snyder's home stands naked before the public. It is not a bad mansion as mansions go. Sort of Neo Loire Valley French Chateau style, three stories, with porches, from which, presumably, Mr. Snyder finally has his view of the Potomac River. But does he? While the visitor on the tow path has an excellent view of Mr. Snyder's house, the area between the Canal and the Potomac remains heavily forested. I am not sure what kind of view Mr. Snyder was able to obtain. I will have to wrangle on invitation from him for afternoon sherry on the porch to see if there is a view worth all the fuss. Mr. Snyder's cutting the trees on the scenic easement on his property resulted in a local and even national uproar, with the usual "Malefactors of Great Wealth" undercurrent that is never far from the surface of our supposedly classless society. "How did he get away with it" bawled the environmental press, hinting some dark collusion with the Bush Administration or other Forces of Darkness. Actually, he didn't get away with it, or at least not entirely. Snyder clear cut 1.5 acres of his land that was in a scenic easement in violation of Montgomery County ordinances (which in this case, are a lot tougher than DOI regs.). In recompense, he must reforest the 1.5 acres with native trees and protect a total of 5 acres of his property not affected by the cutting under a new scenic easement that forbids the cutting of all trees and even all brush with the exception of noxious or invasive species. In addition, he may not dig, build, or conduct any commercial activity on the protected acreage. The new, strict easement will be attached to the Snyder property in perpetuity, even if Snyder sells the property, decreasing the value of the property by roughly the amount of any increase in property value accrued by the alleged improved view. In addition, Snyder agreed to purchase the equivalent of three acres of off site forest for the Montgomery county forest conservation bank at a minimum cost of $37,000. To make sure all this happens, Snyder must allow Montgomery County Reps. on his property after notification and must provide documentation of expenditures for the Forest Bank. All in all, it turned out to be an expensive and embarrassing way to look at a river. Joan and I retraced our steps to Swain Lock, recovered our kayak and paddled back to The Great Falls Visitor Center and the ride home. Back home, there was a message on my computer from the formidably named Ranger Justice, Chief Interpreter for the C & O Canal, providing direction to the Snyder Clear-cut and suggesting that I might like to discuss the matter with him before writing the article. Now, neighbors, you just can't ignore anyone named Justice, so I rang him up for some questions; some routine, some mischievous.
Now most participants in the NPS easement program were more than glad to leave well enough alone, including the understory as it provided privacy, something the well-to do's generally cherish. This was not true of the extroverted Mr. Snyder, who apparently does not mind being on permanent exhibit. (My conclusions, not those of Ranger Justice.) In addition, Mr. Snyder's people misled the perhaps overly trusting NPS when they were asked if they had the requisite permits from Montgomery County. They claimed that they did. Turns out they did not. Did they lie? Well now, to paraphrase one famous politician, that would depend on how you define "lie." As a homey example, consider the occasion you are approached by an alcoholic roofing contractor who tells you he can do your roof for half his competitor's bid. You dubiously ask him if he is licensed, bonded and insured. He will answer "Yeah." In the case of the alcoholic roofing contractor, the statement "Yeah" does not mean that he has any of the above documents, it merely means that he has heard your question and understands your concern, and yes, will eventually, some day, acquire all these documents, but the present lack of which should not prevent your doing business with him in the interim. This is the similarity between multi-millionaires and alcoholic roofing contractors; their word is not their bond, but is subject to interpretation -- or you can wisely demand to be given copies of their documents before proceeding. I asked Ranger Justice one last mischievous question: Had the Park considered putting up an interpretive sign at the site of the Dan Snyder Memorial Clear-cut, detailing what had happened. There was an understandable moment of silence. Nooo..., the park had not considered doing that, but I had a feeling that the idea might be brought up at the next staff meeting. | |
|
Return HOME |
|
PJ Ryan can be reached at:
thunderbear@erols. com.